April 29, Bogota, Colombia

It has been awhile... lost track of days... and spending time studying and review for Spanish class!  Interesting to be on the receiving end of lessons!

It was tough leaving the hotel this morning, it is such a comfortable place. Funny as the owner talked to me more on my way out the door than he has the whole time I have been there! Still a great place, Hotel Nueva Granada, Santa Marta!

1 1/2 hour flight to Bogota, arriving about 11 am. Wow, what a change.... from 32 degrees and 80% humidity to 19 and very low humidity! The hotel is near the airport and has a free shuttle, I have a very early start tomorrow.

I got settled in and then caught the bus to the Museum of Gold in the historical centre. Interesting, as the bus system here is just like a train. They are buses but they have a dedicated lanes for the route! You enter the bus at about 5 feet off the ground from a terminal. Very efficient! It only took about 20 minutes to get to the city. The return trip was more interesting as the the bus was packed. I actually got pushed into the bus as the woman behind was not going to wait for the next bus. There were not many people getting on in the next few stops... good thing.. but there was lots of room by the time I got to my stop.

The museum is huge! 3 floors of displays and artifacts. Lots of gold with some silver, copper and even platinum items. It is really a super place. They also have some videos. One very interesting one is how a pre-Hispanic culture had learned to flood irrigate land in the center of the country. They used river water... but today the dikes that have been built just cause flooding! I ran out of steam after about 2 hours and headed back to the hotel.

Dinner and to bed!


April 28, Santa Marta, Colombia

I went to the Quinta de San Pedro Alejandro museum today! It is where Simon Bolivar lived for a while, but seems to be it was when he was sick. He died in the house. The grounds are beautiful and the 17th century Spanish house is great, although not as big as I thought it would be. Lots of rooms, but only 1 bedroom. Kitchen, bathroom, smoking room, chapel, dining room. The site used to be a sugar cane plantation so there are still some buildings left for the storage and crushing of sugar cane but also the making of rum. Interesting. There are also a few art galleries. One interesting one showed the lives of some indigenous people in the area. Also large hall dedicated to Simon Bolivar. The street leading up to it seemed to have the America's country flags, Canada and the US included.

The grounds are very dry as there has not been much for rain, but I did see a few birds and the best part was the number of iguanas! They were all over..at one point the ground seemed to move with them. Some were at least 6 feet long, nose to tail.

Back to the hotel, swim in pool and drink up some of the free coffee!


April 27, 26, & 25, Santa Marta Colombia

Much of the same..walking the beach, swimming and of course 2 hours of Spanish in the morning. It is difficult but I just need to spend more time with it.. We seem to have covered a lot of ground... Just have to see how useful the basics are!

April 24 Santa Marta Colombia
No class today, so drank way too much coffee at breakfast! I was going to go to another city and look at the beach as I had been told by many people that it is very nice. But there was some thunder and a few drops of rain, so I ended up just walking around Santa Marta. I actually found some street I had not been on. I also walked along the beach... and as it is Sunday the place was packed with families. Their day off. They were not bothered by the rain... although it was not much, the sidewalk never even got wet!

April 23, 22, 21 & 20, Santa Marta, Colombia

I guess I was more exhausted than I thought, it took a couple of days to recover. I did not do much, other than walk a bit on the beach and swim. On the 20th I was able to find a Spanish language tutor so for the next 3 days I was having 2 hours of Spanish lessons...... very difficult... but the tutor's approach is good. I just need to practice! But still having a lot of trouble understanding some people as they speak very fast.

One night while walking along the beach promenade 3 high school students interviewed me for their English class. Very interesting as they had a prepared list of questions. But the introduction was done in Spanish. They made a video of the interview, but It took a few takes of the camera before they were happy with the result. The questions they asked were similar to the ones that I had just learned in Spanish!

April 19, Santa Marta, Colombia

Similar to the other mornings...it was an early start. We were supposed to leave at 6 am but ended up leaving about 6.30. Heading back to Santa Marta. By 7.30 we had spent 40 minutes walking up a very steep hill! Exhausting....tired, sore muscles and all this so early in morning! What a start to the day! But made it! Mostly down hill for there, at least the ups were no where near as difficult as the start. Took about 6 hours today to get to the car for the 1 1/2 hour drive back to the city.

Nice to get back to the hotel and shower in water other than river water. Very tired and sore! But very satisfied...that I made it!

April 19, Santa Marta, Colombia

Similar to the other mornings...it was an early start. We were supposed to leave at 6 am but ended up leaving about 6.30. Heading back to Santa Marta. By 7.30 we had spent 40 minutes walking up a very steep hill! Exhausting....tired, sore muscles and all this so early in morning! What a start to the day! But made it! Mostly down hill for there, at least the ups were no where near as difficult as the start. Took about 6 hours today to get to the car for the 1 1/2 hour drive back to the city.

April 18, 17, & 16, Sierra Nevada Mountains, Colombia

Just finished a 4 day trek in the mountains/rain forest/jungle. What another amazing place and to top it all off, being able to walk around the Ciudad Perdida (Lost City) where construction started in 700 AD and was finished about 1000 AD. The trek was 45 km with many ups and downs, but was up to 600 m at one point and then the city itself is about 1200 m and 1200 steps to get to. Overall about 25 hours of walking in hot and humid weather, and also a rain storm! Exhausting but great.

The area used to be occupied by the guerrillas which controlled the cocaine trade in the area but in about 2002 the military moved in and chased them out, after they had fumigated the land to kill the coca plant. Interesting that coca leaf trees are illegal in the country now except for the indigenous people can still grow and use. This destroyed the livelihood of the local people and most agriculture in the area. Now the people are mostly involved in the tourism industry. They provide the housing and the restaurants and snack shops along the trail as well as being guides in the area.

The area is dense jungle with a maze of trails to various houses in the area. There are also 3 or 4 indigenous tribe villages. Small but interesting. The huts are wood and thatch, and each family has 2 houses, one for the males, and one for the females and children.

During the trek there were toucans, spiders, big flies, butterflies, a snake, flowers, and the lulo plant (juice). I have been drinking the juice all the time being here. It is orange like, but not as acidic.

The accommodation was interesting. They have built rows of bunk beds with mosquito nets for each bed. Each place has a restaurant. In one place I am sure there had to be 100 beds! The other 'camps' were smaller. Each camp had flush toilets and showers! Amazing since we are really in the middle of no where. Nice as well as there were natural pools in the river for swimming, a great way to cool down after a hot day of walking. The tour had 2 cooks along who created some amazing lunches and dinners. Chicken, beef, fish, pasta!

All but the pasta came with rice, patacones (plantain pancakes, fried), salad of lettuce cucumber, onion and tomato. Breakfast was huge with eggs, bread, or cheese sandwich and fruit. Ate lots! On the breaks there was always fresh pineapple, oranges which tasted amazing! Very fresh and local!

The city is constructed on the side of a mountain. It has 4 areas, entrance, market, housing and ceremonial. They used circles of stones for the foundations. But under the centre they buried the dead. Interesting. The area was rich....they had lots of gold but the valuable things were the food they grew as these were used for trade with the other tribes in the area.

We also were able to visit with the local shaman....the healer. Funny as he had a mouth full of coca leaves and he asked for rain 2 weeks ago and as he predicted it was going to rain! It did....within about 20 minutes of talking to him....so we got soaked!

The military has a permanent base at the top of the city, a position that overlooks the area. Interesting to have them watching you with the binoculars!


April 15, 14 & 13

Relaxed, drank coffee, walked on beach, swam, and talked to German woman. Very nice!

April 12, Santa Marta, Colombia

Awake too early again, but that is ok..... watched the sun come up. Very nice.
Breakfast and then onto a boat... for a 30 minute ride through the bay and along the mangroves. Very nice. Saw a caracol (type of eagle), heron and many goats on the beach. It was a great way to go... it saved 1 1/2 hours on the rough roads!

Into the van for a 2 1/2 hour ride along the trails, following the coast fairly closely. The roads are very rough. Arrived in Uribia and had lunch and then a 1 hour ride to Riohacha but this part was on the pavement. Switched to a shared taxi and 2 1/2 hours back to Santa Marta. A long day on the road but nice to be back at hotel.

Relaxed and spent some time talking to a German woman that had just returned from the Lost City. Great to talk to her and get some details.


April 11, Punta Gallinas, Colombia

Off at 8 am driving to the sand dunes along the coast. Beautiful! Got a swim. Interesting as there are a few rocks you need to watch out for. A short drive to a beach. No swimming as it has many jellyfish. But nice to walk along the beach. There were a few dead stingrays on the sand so interesting to look at. Long drive to Punta Gallinas for lunch, rest and then to the Gallinas lighthouse.

A metal tower with a solar powered light. Along the beach are more stone stacks. We watched the sunset. Amazing how fast the sun drops into the water. This is the most northerly point in South America and the most easterly area in Colombia. There is a thin strip of land to the south and west that is Venezuela.

April 10, Cabo de la Vela, Colombia

Up early, 4 am for a 4.30 am pick up! Much too early. Not much talking in the car. Arrived at Riohacha about 7.30.

Into a restaurant for breakfast. I am very glad there was still some coffee leftover at the hotel before I left...

It would have been a very long ride! Good breakfast with a guy from Brazil. A nice talk. Then off to travel agency to wait a bit for other people. Turns out Brazilian guy was in a different car that me. I was lucky there was only 4 of in in a Toyota 4x4 and 6 in the other vehicle. A Dutch couple and 1 German woman Great people. Funny as the German woman was in the car going to Riohacha then sent to different tour company before breakfast...Strange how things work but they do.

Drove along to Uribia. Here we stopped for gas... but no gas station. Just large blue plastic barrels along the side of the road. Gas siphoned into 5 gallon cans and poured into the tank. Turns out the gas is from Venezuela. About 3000 pesos per gallon compared to 7 to 9,000 at the gas station! Off again. We drove to the coast. Here there is a lot of salt harvesting. Interesting to see once again. Here the water is very pink and the salt is not as white as that in Bolivia.

We stopped at Playa Dorada. This coastline is beautiful. And the amazing part is there is no one else around! Very secluded! Went for a swim and enjoyed the water.

Then to Cabo de la Vela (translates to Cape of the candle, there is a lighthouse) which is where we will spend the night. Quite nice. It is a huge bay with a few small hostels. They also have a kite board school.

The wind is howling and the guys were getting lots of air! Great to watch. Lunch, rest and then off to the opposite side of the point. This is rocky but with some very hard sand dunes. Amazing! Another short drive to a beach for some more swimming and we climbed the Pilon de Azucar, Sugar pile. A rock outcrop that looks like a pile of sugar. Great views of the water and area from the top. Only a short walk up, about 15/20 minutes. Nice to get some exercise after sitting for so long!

Then to the lighthouse to watch the sunset. We bought some beer. Small bottles, 222 mls, Polar, from Venezuela! No doubt "imported" the same as the gas! But it was cold and good. Even though there is not much around, there always seem to be people there to sell you drinks or souvenirs! Glad there was beer as it tasted good! A toast to the sun and watched the sun go down. Very fast....very nice... even if there was not a cloud in the sky!

Back to the hostel. I had fish again.... excellent! Just as good as lunch!
Relaxed and to bed early, it had been a very long day! It was probably 9. I had paid extra for a bed, whereas the rest were in hammocks! Apparently they had a snorer! Too funny as I did tell them they were lucky I was in a room!

April 9, Santa Marta Colombia

Slow and relaxing start to the day. Lots of coffee and chatting with woman from London.
I headed off with the directions from the guy from reception to organize a tour to Punta Gallinas...the area to the far east of Colombia, bordering Venezuela. I talked to an Italian that recommended the area. I met him on the bus from Lake Titicaca, Bolivia. His pictures looked amazing!
I then just went to the beach for a bit and then back to hotel....it is a 4.30 am start tomorrow... Not nice but I am sure I will survive!


April 8, Santa Marta, Colombia

I was up very early as I went to bed very early. Very quiet place and nice to lay in the tent and hear the waves on the beach. I slept very well, even if it was an old piece of foam that was very hard!
A good breakfast and off to the beach. Great as there is a fair bit of shade and it is pretty hot.
I headed back about 3. It seems like a long walk back as it is hot and humid again. I was soaked in sweat. Made connections fine and got a nice welcome back at the hotel.


April 7, camping in Park Tayrona, Colombia

I caught the bus to the park entrance. It is not that far but took an hour. Lots of traffic in the city but good
once out of the city. At the park entrance there is a shuttle that takes you to the end of the road. There it is a 1 hour hike to the first camping site. Very interesting place as there is a bunch of hammocks under a roof but also tents to rent. I rented a tent! Not ready for a hammock.

The hike was great along a trail, with some boardwalks and some along the beach! A beautiful place. There are several little bays of beach but most are not good for swimming as the rip tides are strong. The trail did go over and around some huge granite boulders.

The camping area is on the beach, well almost, it over looks a pond which apparently has a resident caiman (small crocodile) and the beach beyond has strong rip tides.

But only had to walk 5 minutes further along the trail to a very nice beach. There were also a couple more spots further along. All very nice. A relaxing place as there is really nothing else to do. Power is from a generator and shuts off at 10 pm, wifi, but there is satellite tv that is on all the time the power is on.

There were a few people around but the places were not packed.


April 6, Santa Marta, Colombia

Today I caught the local bus to Taganga. Cheaper than a taxi at 1500 pesos, about $.75 It is a small fishing village only 20 minutes away. But the drive was over some mountains! Not mountains as we know but still a climb. Amazing how the houses are built up the side of the mountain. It is all rock, so they have had to dig out a flat spot. Seems like a lot of work!

The beach in the town is very small with mostly fishing boats on shore. Very nice but I was told there was a larger nicer beach over the next mountain! So I headed off along a rocky path along the side of the mountain. Great views of the bays! The beach was very nice, but once again a string of restaurants along the beach and many places to rent chairs and shade. Very cheap here, only 3000 pesos, about $1.50. A great way to spend the day.

Also this beach is very very laid back! I only had 2 sellers trying to sell me something......compared to 2 a minute at Cartagena...this is great. I thought Santa Marta was laid back.... this is even more so.

I ended up talking to a pharmacist that is on holidays. He wanted to practice his English. He told me I should see Tayrona Natural Park so I will go tomorrow. There is some hiking so we shall see, it will get me in shape for the hike to the Lost City.


April 5, Santa Marta, Colombia

Went for a walk along the beach expecting to walk a long way, but ended up there was a military base at the end so I did not walk that far. I did not know if there was a way around. I just spent a few hours sitting on the beach and swimming. It was very nice. The beach here is a dark colour so the water is warm and the sand is very hot!
A nice lazy day.

April 4, Santa Marta, Colombia

After a 4 1/2 hour shared taxi ride I arrived in Santa Marta. Not bad....the taxi was full but still lots of room. It would have been faster but there was about 1 hour of driving in the cities.. dropping off and picking up people. Nice as it was door to door.

The country side is very dry as we followed along the coast. Lots of trees but not many leaves and the grass is all brown. We passed through a mountainous area, although not that high and there was 1 sign to a volcano.
Santa Marta is very nice. Not as colonial as Cartagena's historical centre but still nice. There is a mix of old and new buildings. I am further from the beach this time, all of 2 more blocks.

I spent the afternoon walking around. There are not many people around. Interesting as the container port is right in the centre. I did find the tourist information office and got a map and then I did find a travel agency... so I hope I will get the tour I want to the far eastern part of the country.
I have put my name in and I hope that there is a group going soon. But no rush, I have lots of time!


April 3, Cartagena, Colombia

A lazy day today.. I spent it at the beach. Nice as only 1 block away. I rented an umbrella for the day, 10,000 pesos, about $4. Nice as it was a hot sunny day. A great way to spend the day.
But the best part was the coffee after! I went to a coffee spot that is in a 1954 Jeep which has been converted to have a coffee machine. It was excellent. I ended up talking to the guy. Turns out it is a family business that actually grows the beans on a plantation in the Coffee Zona, not far from Bogota. They roast the beans in the back of the Jeep and then make the coffee. It is even organic! They have only been in business for 5 months and this is the only Jeep in Colombia but he said he has a cousin that has one in Manhattan! It was very interesting to talk to him!


April 2, Cartagena, Colombia

Today I walked into the historical centre. It took about 30 minutes, so not far but it was hot and humid very early today... I was soaked by the time I got there. Very nice as I was able to walk along the city walls. Apparently there is 9 km left of the original 11 km. They were built in the 1600s by the Spanish. The old part of the city has some amazing building and they have been very well maintained. They are mostly shops and hotels with some restaurants and coffee shops mixed in.

I walked around many of the street. Of course stopped for coffee a couple of times! Ok...one guy that said he had very good coffee.... well it tasted like Nescafe instant! Just ok!
I went into the Naval museum. It was great. I did have to pay for this one but it covered the whole naval history of Colombia! Not just the Navy parts! It was very well done with great displays, but 99% was in Spanish. I was surprised to learn that the British

April 1, Cartagena, Colombia

Up and out early as taking a tour bus to Playa Blanca (white beach). I was to be picked up at 8 and I was sort of, walked a bit down the street and then wait a bit more and then on bus.... on the bus for an hour before leaving the city. By 10.30 we arrived at beach. It is only a 1 hour drive! Very interesting. This beach is out in the middle of nowhere, but nowhere has at least 3 km of restaurants, bars, and fish places all along the beach.

And of course there are umbrellas for rent, very expensive, beach sellers seller beer and cocktails, cervice, massages, sea doo rides, banana boats, snorkeling.....I don't think I have missed anything! It is a very busy beach with lots of people, and yet plenty of room for more! The beach is whiter than the beach in the city, but no where near as white as the beaches in Mexico!

It was a nice day as I got out of town and I was able to walk most of the beach. The water is very clear even with all the swimmers and the sea doos darting in and out! It felt great!