November 27 Paceville Malta

Relaxing day.
Did laundry and then got my haircut. This cut cost 7 Euro about $10.

Then went for a walk along the coast. It is very windy today but mostly sunny. There are rain showers passing through but still very nice in the sun.
Stopped for coffee and found a nice sunny place to sit, Spinola Bay, a little bay just down the street.

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Then walked to the casino, the former noblewoman's palace. Lots of police around, drivers waiting and a navy ship in the next bay. There must be some commonwealth heads of government here.
I got caught in a rain shower on the way back, getting completely soaked. But had stopped by the time I got the hood on my rain jacket out. Sunny again.


November 26 Paceville Malta

Went to Fort Rinella. This is a British fort built during the Queen Victoria reign in the 1800s. It is also the home of the 100 ton cannon, the largest muzzle loading cannon in the world. The cannon shoots a 1 ton shell, 8 km and needs 200 kg of gunpowder! Apparently this is the distance to the horizon, on water.

This is a small fort built for the cannon and at most had about 50 men, but averaged about 25. This is the last fort built on the peninsulas and is different as it is built level with the ground. This makes it difficult to see from the water.

I went early so I could see the fort but as it was small it did not take long. As I was finishing they were having a demonstration of the evolution of guns. Very interesting. I had a quick lunch and then off on a tour. This tour went through the museum, and explained how the cannon was mechanically loaded. All powered by steam. A real feat considering the date.

Then the tour went up to the arena where a cavalry demonstration was given. They showed 2 guys on horses with sabers and lances trying to pierce pieces of wood stuck in the ground. A game played which helped with skills. Then there was a cannon firing demonstration, and for a donation you could light the cannon. I went for it. Very interesting, a fairly load bang!

The tour was amazing, I have never been to any place where they took you through so much for the entry fee, which also included an audio guide. I ended up being there for 4 hours! It was almost like a private tour, there was only 3 people, including me!

The weather has really changed but there is a system moving through. There has been rain the last few days, but only showers, some heavy, and lots of wind. It feels cold but the daytime temperature is about 18 and the low at night is about 13/14.


November 25 Paceville Malta

Feeling better today.

Off to the Hypogeum today. This is an underground temple or crypt. It is a temple but the rooms were filled with the bones of about 7000 people. This place is amazing. Dating about 5000 BC, there is a small temple above ground but with rooms carved into the rock below. It was found when house builders were digging a cistern for water storage. They only allow 10 people per hour into the temple and it does get fully booked months in advance, but as it is low season I was lucky to get a place a few days ago. It is here the the Sleeping Lady of Malta was found in one of the rooms underground.

The structure is really something as some of the rooms look like the other 2 temples but the Hypogeum is carved out of rock, not made of rock. Unfortunately no photos are allowed but there are lots on line.
It was expensive but well worth it.


November 24 Paceville Malta
Touch of cold or flu today so slept the day away.

November 23 Paceville Malta

Today I caught the bus to Rabat, the city of the Mdina. I had been putting this off as I had seen so many in Morocco. But this Mdina is nothing like the ones in Morocco. There is not much for shopping here! And there were not even many people. It is an old walled city built on a hill in the centre of the island.

The city is built of lime stone and is really very nice. Very few roads that can handle cars so nice to walk down the middle of the street. Amazing! Went to see a video presentation on the Mdina. Interesting. The Knights build this site like they did much of the other parts. It was this period that Malta saw a lot of growth and prosperity.

Once again about 1000 years old, although much has been rebuilt, like parts of the island as many buildings were destroyed during WWII. The streets are narrow and they curve, apparently so that arrows can not travel that far. There is a huge moat around the city that is now a walking park.

November 22 Paceville Malta

I was up early again to see reenactment but it was closed so I went to the Grand Masters Palace. This is huge and very ornate palace used by the rulersin the past and still used for meetings now. Most walls and ceilings are painted but 1 room did have huge tapestries. The floors are tiled, many with crests. There is also a temporary exhibition about the 1565 Seige of Valletta. The Maltese were able to keep the Turks from invading. Lots of pieces on display from the period.

Then into the Knight's armory. Lots of suits of armor along with shields, swords and even some old guns. There were 2 huge rooms. Enough for me! I went walking. I caught the ferry over to Birgu the middle peninsula. There is a huge marina here, with some very large boats or yachts! There is a fort at the end that is surrounded by a moat. Very nice. There is not a lot of traffic here as most of the streets are pedestrian only. A nice change from the traffic everywhere else on the island. The walls around the city must be 8 to 10 metres thick. Huge! They have cut holes in walls to allow cars through.

November 21 Paceville Malta

Off early this morning. Caught the bus to the Blue Grotto and Arch. Very nice but could only look from top of cliff as it is very windy today and the boats into the grotto are not operating.

I walked along the coast for a bit to the temple area. First temple, Hagar Qim was

built about 3000BC. It is believed that these predate the pyramids and Stonehenge. There is not much know about the temples but both temples I saw today are aligned with the solstices. They are not that big is size but the stones used to construct are huge with 1 stone estimated to be 20 tonnes. How did they move these and set them up? No one knows!

Then down the hill a bit to Mnajdra temple. This one is not as old but still very impressive.

The cutting of the blocks, setting up and even cutting walk throughs in some of the large stones is really something. These are temples and not used for living. There has not been any finds of how the people lived. It is hard to imagine these being built 5000 years ago!


November 20 Paceville Malta

Weather did not look great so relaxed and took it easy....cleared up so went and had a coffee on the beach. The sun is still very warm, but the breeze is cool. There was still some people swimming but not very many.


November 19 Paceville Malta

I was up and off to Valletta early this morning. There was a Knight's reenactment I wanted to see. But when I got there, Fort St Elmo is closed! It is being used for the the heads of the Commonwealth meeting this weekend. So I went to a 5D video presentation on the history of Malta. It was very well done..and the island has a 2000 year old history of being attacked. The ticket also included a tour of the Knight's Hospital.

This had a capacity of 900 patients. Huge! The tour covered 2 floors, one for the nobility and one for the poor. A very long hallway type room that had beds on each side. There were also several toilets. Each noble patient and 3 or 4 people to a toilet for the poor.

This room is the convention centre now and will the location of the dinner while the Royal family is here this weekend.
Walked along the one side of the peninsula of Valletta. The walls and moat around the city is huge. And then just headed back to room.


November 18 Paceville Malta

I headed towards Valletta today, I have been here 2 weeks and not been to the capital city yet.
I took another coastal walk, with some detours. I walked around the point this area is on. There is a casino at the end which apparently was an Italian house. Huge with columns around. Very nice location. I walked through a marina. Not that big, but the boats sure were. Found out later that the penthouse goes for just under 3 million euro (only $4.5m). But it is 4000 square feet! I walked along the water and had to climb over a stone fence.

This bay in Spinola. Very nice, especially the old buildings along the water. Nice to see them kept and not replaced with high rise apartments like some. I stopped and had coffee in a 250 year old hotel over looking the bay! Kept walking.... there are several little bays along the way. I went by an old apartment building that could be in Paris...beautiful. It was built in the early 1800s as well. Most of the rest of the way is newer buildings and there is still a lot of construction going on.

There are cranes everywhere! The coast is very nice. At one point there is a long stretch of solid lime stone. Lots of people out in the sun. Also some cooling pools cut into the rock that date back to the early 1900s. My book says they were rented out, sun shade included to people. I then walked around the main marina. Hundreds of boats, some huge and some small fishing boats that may be all of 10 feet. Moored on Manual island are a couple of 3 or 4 story yachts. Too big to fit elsewhere I guess.

Part way around the last bay before Valletta, I caught the ferry across. It docked on the Valletta side at the base of a huge wall from the old city. I walked up the street a bit. The streets are narrow with lots of townhouse type buildings. Each has an enclosed balcony and are 2 or 3 stories high. Very nice.

I stopped on the way back thinking I would stop a few minutes in a museum, The Fortress Builders.

Well that ended up being almost an hour and only 2 floors of the 3 were open. And it was free. What a great museum. It covered all the periods of building in Valletta and explained many things I had seen already. The towers were planned, and were to have defensive walls joining, but that never happened. They all date back to the 1600s.

Getting late so only walked to the edge of Valletta, and caught the bus back. It is not really that far when you follow the road, but I still covered about 10 km today along the coast. It was easy walking, sidewalks, roads and rocks.

November 17 Paceville Malta
Slow morning. Nice waking up and not having to go out for coffee! Coffee not as good, but it will do.
Went for a walk around the area. There is really a lot of construction. Walked to the closest sandy beach. Seems very nice, small in a narrow bay. There is not many people around.

I then decided to finish up the one of the coastal walks. I walked to the Madliena tower. I took only one hour. Very nice walking along the rocks.
Weather still great.... 22/23 in day, but seems to be cooler at night. But still in shorts, but wearing a hoodie at night.

November 16 Paceville Malta

Not much done today. I moved to a new city and now in an apartment. As check out was at 11 am and check in not until 3 pm, I had a relaxing coffee at coffee shop....said good byes. And then walked around the coast. Seemed that there was a fishing derby on. People lined up along the shore line, right next to each other. Never did see anyone catch anything!
Caught the bus to new city. There is a lot of construction going on. Roads blocked leaving some tight places for the bus. I got settled, went to store across the street.
This is very different place. In Qawra, more like senior retirement city. They drink, starting at 9 am, some of them but it is all quiet by 11 pm. Here some places do not open until 5 pm and loud and noisy until... i don't know.


November 15 Qawra Malta

Today was a 10 km walk that was mostly flat, mostly! I walked for the ferry terminal on the north end of the island, Cirkewwa,along the coast to Mellieha Bay. The first part was flat and on sidewalks so fairly easy. Then onto the rocks. Once again I took a wrong turn and ended up in a resort... but just crawled under the fence.... it looked like I was not the first...to get back onto the rocks. There was an old battery that had a story added by a governor. I must have been nice. It was right on the shoreline. Abandoned now. Further along there were several "boathouses" which have be converted to summer homes. Concrete or wood shacks really, side by side, but right on the shore. Very nice. Further along there was another similar 'village' but these were made of shipping containers. Most were just 1 container but there were some luxury ones that were 2.

Along the shore was an inland sea which is really a cave where the ceiling as caved in. There were some paddle boarders inside when I walked by. The coast has some fairly high cliffs as well.
There was a short walk through a pine forest which is the local camping area. It looked like some had been there for the weekend.

Historically there was only the Knight's bastion. A large stone wall along the coast. Along this areas the cliffs are definitely caving/falling into the sea. They are just sliding down. I was not interested in walking on to these parts... but there were several paths.

I arrived at the beach and stopped at the only bird reserve in the country. A small salt flat that was reclaimed from a parking lot! They have done a great job. It is not very big, but they have 2 staff. Both very helpful and interesting.

Then along the Mellieha beach. The sand is very fine and quite nice. Too bad the weather has got cool and windy or I would have had a swim. There are really 2 beaches, separated by a rock outcrop. But there are cart ruts on the rocks. interesting.
Caught the bus and back to hotel... Legs feeling a bit tired.

November 13 & 14 Qawra Malta

I walked the Victoria Lines these 2 days. This is a 12 km fortified wall along a fault line that runs the width of the island. It was built in the 19 century as a defense for the south part of the island from attacks from the north. The main harbour is in the south, Valletta. The British used the wall during WWII strengthening parts and adding gun turrets. The WWII battlements were interesting. Some of the gun turrets had views of the sea on both sides of the island.

I am not sure just how active it was.

It is amazing walk as in many parts you can see the water on both sides. The island is only about 7 km wide. You can also see the cliffs of the Island of Gozo.
There were churches built in the 19th century, a church built under a cliff (St Paul the hermit) and a church in a cave.

There also 'cart ruts' (Google cart ruts Malta). Fascinating! These are parallel carvings in the rock that no one has any idea why or when they were made. They are all over the island. I saw the first set on the first day and tried to find another set on the second day but no luck. The mystery s very interesting.

The first day I walked 8 or 9 km from Bahrija to Fort Mosta. This took about 4 hours. I could have finished all of the walk but I went left around Fort Mosta and I should have went right. I ended up walking around the fort at the base of the wall.... over the wall, and through some fence.... but I thought there was a cliff so did not go any further, just turned around and headed back to the road to catch the bus. On the second day I got of the bus at the Fort and headed in the right direction. I saw that I could have made in down into the valley. Turns out I was over top of the Church of St Paul the hermit. The church built under the cliff. Too bad. It would have been interesting. The second day only took 2 1/2 hours. The weather on both days was perfect. I bit of a breeze blowing.

I went by a huge limestone quarry on he first day, but then by a bigger one the next day.
The walk also has some bridges over the valleys. Very interesting. One on the first day and 2 on the second. It still meant some going down and then back up....but they even had steps.


November 10, 11 & 12 Qawra Malta

Took it easy these days and just went to beach. The weather has been unusually hot I have been told.
23/24 degrees during the day, sun sets at 5 and instantly feels cool. Then anywhere from 15 to 18 over night. Even a couple of foggy mornings. But still has been great.

November 9 Qawra Malta

Today I took a boat tour. The boat is a huge catamaran with a big deck on top and a set of glass windows down below. Very nice. Apparently a family run business. The trip passed by St Pauls island, the island just off the shore near where i am. It passed by a couple of fish farms. They are raising tuna for export to Japan.

We cruised around Comino island going into a couple of caves and then stopping at Crystal bay, where the water was very clear. We passed over a sunken ship, but the water here was not very clear. Then a short stop at the Blue Lagoon on Comino island. Very nice. A small sandy beach but lots of sand in the water. Some people stayed here and the remainder headed to Gozo island. Here we got on a mini bus for an island tour. The tour stopped at a couple of churches and at the citadel. Problem was the citadel was closed and we were not able to get in. Then on to the Azure Window.

A huge arch of rock in the water. Really very nice. Gozo does not have a large population with the rest agriculture. I have no idea how they grow anything..... it is so rocky.... but that explains all the rock fences. They also use the rock to create terraces to level the land. Some of the terraces look like they are more than 10 feet high!

A short ride back to the main island, while watching the sun set. Very nice. I talked to a UK woman for a long time. This was her first trip on her own and she was a bit nervous.. she just arrived yesterday.


November 8 Qawra Malta

I headed off to do one of the walks, but I jinxed myself about the buses! I missed my stop, which added an hour on top of the extra time on bus and then after waiting an hour, my transfer did not stop! So headed off to Dingli Cliffs. it was on the way back to the hotel! Wow what a place. It is the highest point on the island at 250 metres
above sea level, and much of it straight down to the water.

I walked for about an hour along the coast. At 1 point there are several farms on a plateau just below where I am, about half way to the water. Very nice. I then went out on a point I had seen from the bus. What a great place. Here the views are amazing in both directions. Also at this point there was a bronze age settlement (about 2700 BC to 700 BC time period). They had dug silos/storage places into the rock. There were several with holes on top. I do not know what was kept inside.

There were some trenches around some so maybe water. I did spent a fair bit of time talking to a Dutch family that have lived here for 15 years. He works in a big resort on the island. They had lots of suggestions of places to visit.
The weather today was great. Actually warm and no clouds in the sky. A first since I have arrived.

I also met a 95 year old English woman! She was amazing! She did not even look 75 and she hopped off the bus and took off faster that many much younger people have! She has been coming to Malta for 30 years! She was on her way to airport to meet a friend but decided to get off at the Medina and spend some time. Very interesting talking to her. She says there has been a lot of change on the island and she is not happy. Too many glass and concrete buildings.... and there seems to be many more on the go.

November 7 Qawra Malta

Today I caught the bus to Golden Bay. Apparently one of the best beaches on the island. it is only a 20 minute bus ride and then a 10 minute walk down the hill. The beach is very nice, reddish coloured sand. i did not go down but instead waled along the road to The tower of Ghajn Tuffieha built in 1637. It was build to defend against the Ottomans. I then continued up the hill more. At the top there was amazing views of 2 beaches, Golden Bay on right and Ghajn Tuffieha bay to the left.

At the top of the hill there was an old WWII watch point, apparently built to look like a farm house. I walked further along the crest and decided I wanted to get to the top of the peninsula that has a flat top. But had to go down first, and then up. I could not find a way to the top so walked around instead. At the start there was a fairly good 'goat' like track but that disappeared and I ended up scrambling over, around and under some huge boulders. I did make it around, that is after a few up and downs. I then decided, once I was close to the top that I wanted to go down to Gnejna Bay beach.

This was a mud bank all the way down. There was a bit of a track, but that soon disappeared. If it had been any wetter after last nights heavy rain I could have had a mud slide all the way down.

I did make it and started to walk around to a lime stone point. This took a bit but did make it. So interesting to be standing on this point that is very close to the water. To continue on, I had to climb up the bank to the top of the bank. I really wanted to go along the beach but there was no way to do.

So 15 minutes later I was at the top! Amazing views again. I just followed the track to Ta'Lippija Tower. Easy walking as flat. Interesting as there are several pieces of farm land. I ended up on a road. Instead of continuing along on this walk. I should take 4 or 5 hours, but I took a detour and it took me that long to do only half. I found a bus stop but it was out of service for the winter. More walking. I walked by what looked like a church as there was a cross on top but it had the style of a fortress. It was a castle, that is now used as a wedding hall. I ended up in the town of Mgarr.

A nice little place. I had to ask where the bus stop was but got told by the church. Hard to miss as the church is huge with a very large dome at the top. I caught the bus back to Golden Bay and jumped right on the bus back to the hotel. Very nice. The bus system is really good and every stop tells you where the bus goes. Buses and I usually don't get along, I always get lost! At least here I probably will get lost but on ta small island, it really does not matter. And I did make it back, without getting lost.
I will have to finish the walk another day.





November 6 Qawra Malta

The forecast was for thunderstorms today so I just wandered around the area. I did not want to go too far. As it turned out, it was cloudy and then about 2 pm it cleared right off and was very nice. I spent some time just sitting on the rocks/beach. Very nice. Even though cloudy the temperature is very comfortable, there is no wind.

I did find a bookstore and I bought a book on walking trails for the island. I will see how much I can do. The island itself is only 155 km around. It looks like I have done about 12 or 13 km already and the book does not even include the Roman road I did yesterday.

November 5 Qawra Malta

The usual start to the day and I was off.

Today I headed west along the coast. Very interesting as there are a couple of small sandy places along the way. Red sand! But it is mostly rock. Again many of the houses are made with the smooth stone, but I did see some made from a rougher looking stone, even some that are rough but have a smooth edge. I stopped to go up the Wignacourt Tower but it was full of school kids, so i kept walking.

There are neolithic tombs noted on my map so I was heading there. It has been about 2 hours so far. On my search for the tombs I saw a sign for a Roman road... so I followed it. The country has designed this as a Heritage trail. It was great. You could still see the stones from 2000 years ago forming both edges of the road. Along this road there was also a cave, apparently sheltered a sailor and also some beehives carved right into the rock cliff face. There was a collecting room behind the hives. Very interesting.

I continued on along the road and found a sign for the tombs. I headed off along a side trail. Not really sure but found a large hive shaped structure and several small stone piles which I think are the tombs. But also in the area were chairs and wood pallets. All of them with empty shotgun shells all over the place. Scary! But I did keep going as I had not seen anyone on the trails. Then on the way back there was a young guy in a blind with a shot gun! I am guessing they are shooting rabbits. According to an Australian couple I did meet later, rabbit is a delicacy on the island and they do shot them with shot guns!

I kept going and there were some Roman baths cut right into the cliff face. There were fed by springs which do not appear to be running any longer. Heading on the Roman Road disappeared under asphalt road.... that was the end. Very interesting walk. I also found out from the trail book I bought that the pools on the shore line are actually Roman made. Not sure if that means they are 2000 years old as well.

Caught the bus back to town and went for a coffee and then I sat on the beach and watched the sun set. It sets at 5 pm, but rises at 6 am. A short day.
The weather has been good. about 22/23 in the day with some clouds and down to 17/18 at night. Even in the day the sun is hot, but the air still feels cool.
Dinner and that is it, another day of walking lots.


November 4 Qawra Malta

Coffee, breakfast and off. Breakfast is very British. Eggs, beans, toast, sausage and BACON!
Today I headed off east along the coast. The plan was to go the Madliena Tower. I made but took 3 hours of walking along the shore on lava rock and along the roadside. All very nice. I also stopped at another town along the way. These were apparently connected by a wall at one point and seem to be from the 1500/1600 time period. All made of lime stone that is cut so that it is very smooth. Many buildings are built of the same stone. It is so nice... and
no flaws at all. I did see a couple of places along the coast that have stone that is very nice, but no cut marks.

There are many salt pans on the island as well. Very interesting as they are carved right into the rock! amazing.
The walk was great but I was very tired so up the hill to the road to catch the bus back. I still had to walk a fair way just to the first bus stop. I was out in the middle of nowhere so no need for a bus stop.

Walked around the area a bit looking for something eat. I ended up at a British pub and had steak and mushroom pie with mash (potatoes) Really good but not sure if just a great change in diet!
Out early... fell asleep reading.