October 6 Ouazazate Morocco
I did not have internet in Tinghir, but in desert there was! Go figure. So I am catching up now!
Took it easy today, spent the morning just sitting around guest house, drinking too much coffee. Not bad even if it is instant! I will be happy to get some real stuff.
I had hoped to catch the 12.30 bus but it was full so i had to wait for the 4 pm bus. I spent the time in a cafe drinking REAL (good) coffee and having lunch. The guide from yesterday showed up, several times, to visit. Interesting as he did not like this other guy that had joined me. Apparently he was and illegal guide and said he had lied to me about his background. I just don't know any more! Oh well, the other guy left as soon as I said 'no shopping'! That seems to work, and if they say just look, I add 'no looking'!
| Kids I met on walk that wanted picture taken |
The bus finally left at 5 pm. I though maybe the time had changed as the guy next to me had 4 pm. But no time change, just a late bus. Very crowded, with standing room only, and some people were standing! The ride was 2 1/2 hours through mostly flat land. This is the area between the 2 mountain ranges. There is even a bit of water around, but there are still dry rivers. One area even looked hoodoo like. The area s mostly desert like. Mostly looks like small rocks with some small sand dune areas thrown in.
Out for dinner at the hotel. Was very good. Chicken skewers. Out for a bit of a walk after and found an ice cream shop. It was $.50 for 2 scoops.
October 5 Tinghir Morocco
Thinking that I was going to have a relaxing breakfast, the guide actually showed up. He was here by 8 am, 2 hours earlier than planned but that is ok. He waited for me and we left by 9. Interesting as the manager of the hotel did not like the guide at all. Not really sure why... but shall see.
We headed off along the road towards the gorge. We walked along a road for a bit but then that turned into a goat path. The first of many to come. Great views over the river.
Past an abandoned area of mud houses, apparently the Jewish community. Then along the river/garden area. Once again lots of date palms, corn, and alfalfa. Very nice. Onto the road, and bought 2 loaves of bread, 6 dirham, about 80 cents. Then headed off into a dry river bed. Very large. Followed this for a ways. Met a few people with donkeys on their way to the market. All very nice. Also past a family of nomadic Berber living along the river bed.
They have dug out caves to live in but they also have tents. After a bit then up the side of the gorge. Today climb will be from about 700 metres to 2000 metres. There is not much of a trail but you can see goat droppings and some wear and shiny spots on the rocks. The climbing is not too bad and at times the guide is going a bit slow for me. This is probably a good thing. The views over Tinghir are amazing and the rock are really something. After a bit another view point that overlooks another village Tingse ( I think).
A bit more climbing and we arrive at another Berber camp. This time they have several caves dug into the mountain as well as a couple of tents. 2 women and 2 kids plus chickens and 1 dog. They also have built stone fences for the livestock. We have tea and lunch. The ladies both have tattoos on their chins and foreheads. This means that they are engaged (the chin) and divorced ( the forehead). Very interesting. Just as we are finishing 2 Spanish guys and their guide show up. This camp takes tourists for an overnight stay in a cave. So far walking has been about 4 hours.
After tea, we start heading down hill along a very windy path. At least here there is trail markers, the first. The side of the mountain is very steep. After about 2 more hours we arrive at the gorge. Amazing! 300 metres straight up! Very interesting as there is a concrete road that goes all the way through the gorge. It only takes about 20 minutes to get through. Also in the heavy rains last week, a large rock broke loose and fell on the restaurant of one of the hotels. Fortunately there was no one hurt! The rock is huge!
The guide leaves me to walk the rest of the way back to the hotel. Instead of taking the pathway we came on, I head off to following the path along the river and through the many garden plots. Very nice and peaceful. You can hear the river and some birds singing. Great as along the way there were many hellos, how are yous, in French. Always a big smile as well. Such friendly people. Also a few donkeys. One guy had 2 donkeys loaded down with dates. One of the donkeys was a bit lame in front hoof.
What a great day! I am very tired and will be sore tomorrow but so worth it! Walking in total was probably 7 hours as I got back to hotel about 5! I have been carrying my walking sticks all this time and I finally used them!
It so dry here, that my laundry is dry in 2 hours!
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